Required Tools

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=90 BGCOLOR="#006633" TEXT="#F7F7FF" bgproperties="fixed" background="079005a0ddvuru.png"> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/index.htm"><U><B>home</B></U></A><B>     |     </B><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FFCC66" FACE="Arial" ><B>Vern</B><B>co.com</B></FONT></div> <div> back to<B>  </B><A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle/"><U><B>Full-Floating Rear Axle</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/id173.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/id173.htm"><U><B>Site Map</B></U></A></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=150 BGCOLOR="#669966" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle1/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle1/"><U>Rear Axle ID</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle2/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle2/"><U>Stock configuration</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle3/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle3/"><U>Full-Floater</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle4/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle4/"><U>Vern-O-Lock</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/"><U>Ring and Pinion Adjustment</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle6/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle6/"><U>Required Tools</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle7/" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle7/"><U>Helper Spring Mounts</U></A></div> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" height=390 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> Some of these tools are mandatory, and the rest are highly recommended.  Pay in cash and hide the receipts from your wife.</div> <bR> <div>  <A NAME="bertha"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> Here is the type of hub puller you will need to remove the brake drums.  This is mandatory.  Even if you are not rebuilding your axle, this is needed to pull the rear drums for a brake job.  Don't waste your time with a jaw-type puller that grabs the edge of the drum.  It must grip the wheel studs or the drum will be distorted:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id72.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Bertha"><U><IMG SRC="0b9af5a0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="90" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Here is Bertha in use.  This is one of the few times where a BIG hammer is needed.  It is extremely important that you leave the axleshaft nut loosely in place when pulling the brake drums.  Without the nut, the drum and puller will launch across the room:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id73.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Bertha on drum"><U><IMG SRC="0bdaf5e0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="94" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <A HREF="http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/puller.html" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys"><U>Read about Rick Grover's experience with a hub puller here</U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div>  <A NAME="slide_hammer"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> Below is a locking jaw slide hammer.  You will not be able to remove the axleshafts from the housing without one.  The jaws are reversible, so you can work from either the inside or outside of an object, making this a very versatile tool.  Make sure you get the type with the locking collar to secure the jaws, or else they will flop around:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id74.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Slide hammer"><U><IMG SRC="0beaf6c0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="108" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> A bolt-grip puller is also mandatory.  The mandrel is turned with a wrench to apply pressure.  Use two wrenches on the mandrel to form a T-handle.  This will let you apply more torque without forcing the puller off to the side:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id77.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Bolt grip puller"><U><IMG SRC="0d6af520.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="82" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> Here is a pair of bearing splitters.  This is the preferred method to remove the roller bearings from the differential carrier.  It will also make it easier to remove the bearings from the axleshafts if you don't have a press.  If you only get one splitter, the smaller size is more versatile in close quarters.  Look for a splitter with a minimum of 2.75" clearance between the bolts so that it will fit around the <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_pulling_carrier_bearings.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_pu"><U>differential carrier bearings</U></A>:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id76.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Splitter"><U><IMG SRC="5eb64780.jpg" border=0 width="100" height="120" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div>  <A NAME="pulling_axleshaft_bearings"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> A bolt-grip puller, in conjunction with a bearing splitter, can be used for pulling bearings such as on the differential carrier.  This next image shows the same set-up being used to remove the bearing from an axleshaft.  Make sure the splitter is firmly against the bearing center and not the rotating cage.  For reinstalling the bearings, the same puller can be placed at the inboard end of the axleshaft and connected to the splitter with long threaded rods instead of the shorter bolts seen here:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id78.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Splitter on axle"><U><IMG SRC="0d8af510.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="81" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <div>  <A NAME="rolling_head_pry_bars"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> Due to tight clearances underneath one bearing on the differential carrier, you may need to use a rolling head pry bar.  These will only work against the <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_rolling_head_pry_bar_on_carrier.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_ro"><U>flat surface of the ring gear mounting flange</U></A>.  A bearing splitter is still needed for the other bearing due to the sloping shape of the carrier:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id439.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Rolling Head Prybars"><U><IMG SRC="6ec7d550.jpg" border=0 width="125" height="85" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div>  <A NAME="yoke_holder"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> You will need some method to hold the driveshaft yoke while working with the pinion gear shaft.  Here is a crude homemade tool I made in the middle of the night to do the same job on the parking brake drum.  It bolts to the holes for the U-bolts.  You can break the nut free without a yoke holder by using an impact gun, but it will be needed to torque the nut in place.  Although not mandatory, I also highly recommend an impact gun:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id226.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Yoke holder"><U><IMG SRC="326af680.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="104" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> From the service manual, here's a scan of the factory tool, which has a rectangular opening to fit around the outside of the yoke:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id236.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Factory yoke holder"><U><IMG SRC="c9599af0.jpg" border=0 width="153" height="175" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> While working on my '51 wagon's front differential, I had to create a tool similar to the factory version because of the yoke design.  This tool is simply a short length of heavy bar stock joined by two bolts to a long piece of angle iron.  Tighten the two bolts and the yoke is held securely:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id736.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Yoke Holder 2"><U><IMG SRC="c97c8560.jpg" border=0 width="200" height="86" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div>   </div> <div>  <A NAME="bearing_seal_driver_set"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> A bearing/seal driver set is another helpful item that works wonders for inserting seals and bearing races.  An assortment of old bearing races and short lengths of pipe will also come in handy:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id79.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Driver set"><U><IMG SRC="0d9af490.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="73" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <div>  <A NAME="calipers"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> You will need a good set of feeler gauges.  A set with the blades about 2 or 3 inches long will work best.  Get the type where the individual blades can be removed.  This feature is needed where you must take two measurements at once or stack several blades together.  For selecting the various shims, you will need some means to measure their thickness.  Any type of caliper, micrometer or thickness gauge will work:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id480.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Calipers, etc."><U><IMG SRC="7acaf480.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="72" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div>  <A NAME="dial_indicator"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> A Dial Indicator set is mandatory.  This lets you set delicate adjustments quickly, easily, and without guesswork.  One important use is to measure <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_backlash.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_ba"><U>backlash at the ring gear</U></A>.  This picture shows axleshaft endplay being measured by a dial indicator on a C-clamp base.  A magnetic base, not shown, is also highly recommended.  </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id80.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Dial indicator no comments"><U><IMG SRC="0daaf490.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="73" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div>  <A NAME="torque_wrench"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> A good torque wrench is worth its weight in gold.  If you're not going to bother with torque wrenches, please turn off your computer now.  You will need a torque wrench with a 220 ft-lbs capacity to torque the nut for the pinion gear shaft.  The torque range for the ring gear bolts is 35-55 ft-lbs, which may require a smaller torque wrench.  </div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id210.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="2 Torque wrenches"><U><IMG SRC="2da64630.jpg" border=0 width="100" height="99" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div> To measure the rotating drag on the pinion gear shaft, you will also need some means to measure 10-25 in-lbs (not ft-lbs), which is little more than hand tight.  A click type torque wrench works well for tightening fasteners, but it can't display a range of values.  Use either a dial or beam style torque wrench for this application.  The torque wrench below features a follower needle to record the maximum value indicated on the dial, which makes it very handy for such delicate readings:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id742.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Inch Pound Torque Wrench"><U><IMG SRC="cab96710.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="113" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> Click <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_breaker_bar_and_fish_scale.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index_br"><U>here</U></A> to see how I was able to read that delicate measurement using a fish scale and breaker bar before I purchased the torque wrench seen above.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> .</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>