The spindles being used for my conversion supposedly came from the front axle of a mid-60's CJ-5.  Check the inner bore of the spindles, as some earlier spindles have a smaller inside diameter even though the outer diameter is the same.  The inner bore must be at least 1.250" to allow the axleshaft to fit inside.

The picture below shows the spindle being held up next to the axlehousing.  Pay attention to the lip on the spindle, as it will not fit inside the bore of the axlehousing:

If you tried to bolt up the spindle, the lip will hit:

The calipers resting on the spindle show how much must be trimmed to fit the axlehousing bore in the background:

This is where that lathe came in handy.  Maybe I should put a lathe on the list of mandatory tools and you can show your wife:

Here is the finished spindle.  The mating surface of the spindle flange has also been lightly cleaned up.  Make sure you leave an appropriate radius in the inside corner:

Below is a before and after shot of the spindles:

This gave me goose bumps when I bolted up the reworked spindle:

The next picture shows the brake backing plate installed.  Note the keyway in the end of the spindle:

 

Here we see the inner and outer bearings sitting on the spindle.  The brake backing plate has been removed for clarity.  The washers won't rotate because they have an inner tab that fits in the keyway.  The thick inner washer, which is hardened, acts as a thrust washer against the bearing.  The thin outer washer is sandwiched between the two nuts and is then bent over to keep the nuts from turning.

Caution: The inner tab washer and second nut  were not shown in a previous incorrect version of this image:

 

More details about the bearings, etc., are explained in the Front Axle section, including a retrofit option for the spindle nuts.

 

Here is a look at the inner side of the wheel hub and brake drum.  The bearing cups are already installed.  The cups rest against a lip inside the hub.  Note the gap in the lip which lets you drive out the cups with a brass drift.  The grease seal is not installed.  It will fit right above the inner bearing cup and seal against the spindle just inboard of the inner bearing:

Here is a view of the same hub and drum from the outside.  The wheel studs were swaged in place at the factory, locking the hub and drum together as a solid unit.  Unless replacing either of the components, there is no need to separate the hub and drum, which would require drilling or cutting out the wheel studs.  Note the six bolt holes around the hub perimeter:

Below is the hub and drum mounted on the spindle.  The hub is free to spin independently on the spindle bearings and is not connected to the axleshaft in any way:

This shows a stock Driving Flange from the front axle installed on the end of the hub.  Note the splines inside the Driving Flange where the custom axleshaft will fit.  If this arrangement is used, the axleshafts will be constantly engaged to the hub.

To allow the rear wheels to spin independently of the axleshaft for flat-towing, locking hubs can be used, just like on the front axle.  For parts interchangeability, the Warn locking hubs I am using are almost the same as those on the front axle:

 

For comparison to a factory full-floater, here is the hub on the Dana 60 rear axle on my F250 truck.  The flange which drives the hub is integral to the axleshaft.  By removing the bolts around the flange, the entire axleshaft pulls right out: