|
Since starting this project, I have learned how only the early front axleshafts have a threaded section at the very outboard end. Later versions were flush with the end of the splines, with much less of the axleshaft protruding.
This picture shows a spare front axle in my shop. It has the threaded section at the very end, just like the original axle on my Jeep:
The vintage Warn hubs I purchased for the rear are made for the non-threaded type of front axleshafts. They do not have enough internal clearance for the protruding threaded section which I had planned to duplicate. This is not a major problem, and I made the rear custom axleshafts so they used a snap ring instead.
A brief explanation about the two types of Warn hubs may be helpful. The next picture shows the deeper type that fits the longer threaded axleshafts. This picture is on the front axle of my Jeep. Note how the Warn hub consists of an inner and outer section. The outer section, the part with the Locking Dial, is the same on both types and will be explained further down the page. The six mounting bolts have been removed:
This picture shows the thick inner section still mounted on my Jeep's front axle. To the left is the thinner inner section from the non-threaded style hub. Note how the end of the axleshaft will only protrude slightly on both styles. The Driving Flange rides on a thin roller bearing inside the inner hub section on both styles:
Here is a close-up of the Driving Flange installed on the rear full-floater custom axleshaft. Note the roller bearings inside the hub's inner section. The Driving Flange has a snap ring to hold it in place in the hub inner section. The Driving Flange would not normally need to be removed like this. This was done to show the roller bearing:
The image below shows the completed full-floater axleshaft installed in the hub for the rear axle. Note how the tip of the axleshaft only protrudes slightly beyond the Driving Flange, just like on the front axle. The snap ring on the end of the axleshaft is visible:
This next image shows the backside of the outer Warn hub section. Remember, this part is the same on both styles. Threads on the backside of the Locking Dial move the Mating Flange in or out. The twelve Drive Pins prevent the Mating Flange from rotating relative to the outer casting. The Drive Pins themselves do not move. Note how the Mating Flange is recessed. It cannot engage the Driving Flange on the end of the axleshaft so the hub is now freewheeling.
This image shows the Locking Dial has turned and moved the Mating Flange so it is flush. The Mating Flange is now in position to mesh with the Driving Flange on the axleshaft. This is the Lock position:
|