PTO And Driveshaft Installation

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=90 BGCOLOR="#006633" TEXT="#F7F7FF" bgproperties="fixed" background="079005a0ddvuru.png"> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/index.htm"><U><B>home</B></U></A><B>     |     </B><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FFCC66" FACE="Arial" ><B>Vern</B><B>co.com</B></FONT></div> <div> back to<B>  </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="PTO Winch Installation"><U><B>PTO Winch Installation</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/id173.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/id173.htm"><U><B>Site Map</B></U></A></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=150 BGCOLOR="#669966" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <A HREF="id41.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Koenig King Winch"><U>Koenig King Winch</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id44.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="OD/PTO Adapter"><U>OD/PTO Adapter</U></A></div> <div> <B>PTO And Driveshaft Installation</B></div> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" height=390 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> Routing the PTO driveshaft was quite a project.  The complete PTO drive, winch, mount and driveshaft came from another CJ-2A.  It had a one-piece driveshaft and I saw it when it was still installed.  Clearances were very tight around the bellhousing and steering bellcrank, but it worked.  When I tried to install it on my 48 CJ-2A, the driveshaft positively would not clear in one piece.  Even though my overdrive and PTO adapter moved the PTO drive aft by approximately seven inches, that was not a factor.  After much research, I discovered the other Jeep had a different type of bellcrank.  It was just enough to give the clearance needed.  My bellcrank has an S-shaped arm with the ball pointing down for the draglink.  This type has a 3/4" shaft.  The other type of bellcrank has a straight arm with the ball pointing up.  This type has a 7/8" shaft.  The bellcrank mount on the crossmember is very different, too.  A retrofit to the 7/8" style would have required extensive modifications to the crossmember.  Instead I added a U-joint in the middle to make it work.  </div> <bR> <div> Another major problem was routing the exhaust.  The guy at the muffler shop refused to install the exhaust pipe above the transmission crossmember, insisting it wouldn't fit.  I finally had to guarantee I'd pay him for time and material if he tried and it didn't work.  As you can see, it came out great.  Another option would be to <A HREF="http://www.fineartmodels.com/edit/preview_image.asp?image=../images/uploads/fs_7830_m-willysjeep_11.jpg" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.fineartmodels.com/edit/previe"><U>route the exhaust like on an MB/GPW</U></A>, where it crosses under the bellhousing just forward of the transmission and then runs aft along the passenger side.  Even with that routing, clearances are very tight around the brake master cylinder as we will see below.</div> <bR> <div> Let's start by looking at the PTO drive unit.  Here is a view of the PTO with the rear cover removed.  A chain and sprocket drive transmits power to the PTO output shaft.  Power is then routed forward to the winch via a shaft and U-joints.  The <A HREF="id44.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="OD/PTO Adapter"><U>OD/PTO Adapter page</U></A> shows how the transmission powers the PTO drive.  This view is on my workbench, with the PTO drive bolted directly to the back of the transfer case for a test fit.  I have fitted studs instead of the original bolts which secured the PTO drive case halves.  In the aluminum case, several of the bolt holes had stripped from overtorquing.  The studs reach down to the bottom of the holes to engage undamaged threads:</div> <bR> <div>   <A HREF="id166.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="PTO open on bench"><U><IMG SRC="206af410.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="65" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> In this view, the PTO drive is installed on the vehicle, behind the overdrive and PTO adapter.  You would be looking forward and slightly left from a vantage point under the rear axle.  For reference, the emergency brake drum and rear driveshaft are visible at the right side.  You can also see the heat shield I added due to close proximity to the exhaust pipe.  At the bottom of the PTO drive I added a small 1/8" drain plug, which is not readily visible in these pictures.  Without this plug, the only way to drain the PTO drive is to split the case halves.  If you add a drain plug, there are some internal ribs to avoid, so separate the case halves first.  Note the original Michigan Yellow paint underneath the body tub:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id132.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="PTO view forward"><U><IMG SRC="15eaf420.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="66" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <div>  <A NAME="oil_level_gauge"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> This close-up of the rear face of the PTO drive shows the oil level sight glass I added.  There are five plugs on the rear face that allow access to the PTO mounting bolts inside.  The sight glass is merely two elbows threaded into two of the five plug openings.  The other three plugs are installed as normal.  A length of clear PVC tubing between the elbows is secured by spring clamps.  The tubing is up high and protected from debris, and is holding up very well.  Recently it was suggested to add a bright colored floating ball to make the oil level even easier to see.  If you do that, size the ball carefully so it cannot pass inside the elbows into the PTO drive.  Normal oil level would be about even with the bottom plug.  I have decided to run the oil level slightly higher, about midway between the two plugs, to ensure the overdrive is never starved for oil.  Since the overdrive sits so high on the transfer case, a slight drop from the stock oil level can damage it.  You can also see the new mount for the emergency brake return spring, as the stock mount on the body tub is blocked by the PTO drive:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id134.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="PTO closeup plugs"><U><IMG SRC="168af6a0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="106" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <div>  <A NAME="pto_vs__pto"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> Should you be lucky enough to find a PTO drive, be aware that Koenig made different versions depending on the vehicle.  Look at this next picture, showing a PTO drive designed for a Willys wagon or pickup.  The CJ version shown above hangs down at a slightly steeper angle and both edges are straight.  The version designed for Willys wagons and pickups mounts closer to a horizontal position and has a dogleg on the upper edge:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id539.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Model 41 PTO"><U><IMG SRC="8b8af480.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="72" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> If you try to install the wagon/pickup version on a CJ, the output shaft will interfere with the clutch linkage and the case will hit the left frame rail.  I do not know if the CJ series will work on a wagon or pickup.  Ramsey used a different approach and designed their PTO drives to fit either application with two sets of bolt holes.</div> <bR> <div> Working our way forward, here is a worm's eye view from the left side about midway between the wheels, just aft of the transmission crossmember.  The emergency brake drum and rear driveline are visible at the bottom for reference.  The exhaust pipe runs fairly close to the inside of the left frame rail where the fuel line and tank drain are.  Even though it is probably far enough away, I added a heat shield hanging straight down as a precaution.  This heat shield also acts a a baffle so any fuel that might leak will run straight down away from the exhaust.  Although not readily apparent in this view, the fuel line heatshield is about two inches inboard from the frame rail, leaving a gap for the fuel line:</div> <bR> <div>  <A HREF="id135.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Left side view PTO"><U><IMG SRC="16aaf3d0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="61" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Next is a close up shot from directly underneath the fuel tank, looking straight up.  The front of the Jeep is to the left of the picture.  Only the edge of the fuel line baffle/heatshield is visible, as it hangs straight down:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id141.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Fuel tank closeup"><U><IMG SRC="18caf420.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="66" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Here is a shot looking forward, showing how the PTO driveshaft and exhaust run above the transmission crossmember.  Everything, including the PTO drive, fits above the skidplate, which has been removed for clarity:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id136.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Crossmember looking forward"><U><IMG SRC="16faf6f0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="111" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <div>  <A NAME="brake_mc"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> Just forward of the transmission crossmember was the tightest spot of all.  In the image above, note the heatshield for the brake master cylinder.  Here is a close-up of that area, looking nearly straight up.  It was necessary to form a slight flat spot on the side of the exhaust pipe.  The flat bracket which runs between the master cylinder and pedal shaft also had to be bent slightly:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id137.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="MC details"><U><IMG SRC="174af580.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="88" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> With your head under the crossmember looking forward, here is a view of the pillow block and forward half of the PTO driveshaft:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id138.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Forward view 2"><U><IMG SRC="179af420.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="66" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> Here is a close-up of the pillow block.  It is a spherical rod bearing, which allows some misalignment of the shaft.  The bearing and bracket are secured to one of the oil pan mount bolts.  If the bracket was tightened too much, the oil pan gasket would be crushed.  Instead, a stud was used in place of that bolt.  Without the bracket, a nut was torqued like the other bolts.  Then the bracket was secured against that nut with a second nut.  That way, the bracket can be held securely without overtorquing the oil pan:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id139.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Pillow block"><U><IMG SRC="182af750.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="117" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> Moving forward, here is a shot from just behind the front axle.  The backside of the winch is visible.  Note the S-shaped arm on the bellcrank, with the draglink below it.  An image is also available of a <A HREF="id168.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Straight arm bellcrank"><U>bellcrank with the straight arm</U></A>, showing the difference.  In the image below, the steering linkage is in the straight ahead position.  The bellcrank swings side to side in an arc, creating lots of clearance problems with the PTO driveshaft.  If the winch is mounted lower so the driveshaft passes completely under the bellcrank, the axle can hit the PTO driveshaft before reaching the bumpstop on the frame.  Even so, I had to add a 5/8" spacer block to the left front bumpstop:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id140.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Aft side of bellcrank"><U><IMG SRC="187af750.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="117" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div>  <A NAME="grasshopper_clip"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> Here is a shot from the front, showing how the front edge of the draglink comes very close to the back of the U-joint during a right hand turn.  Koenig originally supplied spacers for the early CJ series that moved the bumper and winch forward about 2".  That would have helped a lot had I known, as seen in some <A HREF="http://www.billys56willys.com/b555_page_11.pdf" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.billys56willys.com/b555_page_"><U>Koenig literature</U></A>.  Since I disconnect the front of the draglink for flat-towing, note the grasshopper clip used instead of a cotter pin:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id142.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Front view of draglink"><U><IMG SRC="18eaf420.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="66" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> This shot shows how tight clearances also are in a left turn.  This image is from ground level ahead of the front left tire, looking up and aft.  That is the tire tread on the very right side of the picture  Here the draglink has moved aft and swung inboard due to the arc of the bellcrank:</div> <bR> <div>  <A HREF="id143.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Left turn low view"><U><IMG SRC="193af490.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="73" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/tips/id329.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/tips/id329.htm"><U>A view from underneath</U></A> shows more details looking straight up at the bellcrank.  To ensure proper clearance, the grease zerks were removed from the PTO U-joint slip yoke and both ends of the draglink.  Flush fittings were installed requiring a rubber tipped needle fitting for the grease gun.  Despite such apparently tight clearances, I've used lumps of clay in strategic spots to verify that nothing is hitting.  Even in the worst scenarios considering frame flex, etc. a minimum of 1/4" clearance is maintained at all times.</div> <div>  <A NAME="skidplate"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> With that PTO drive sticking out the back, a new skidplate was in order.  Believe it or not, the parking brake drum hangs down lower than the PTO drive.  Because the PTO drive is so far aft with the overdrive, the original skidplate offered little protection.  Here is my new skidplate next to the original one.  Note how the original skidplate did not cover the parking brake drum.  Also note how my new skidplate is not only longer, but covers more area on the left side, too.  The two large holes in the old skidplate were for access to the transmission mount, which I chose not to duplicate on the new one:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id503.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Two skidplates"><U><IMG SRC="816af440.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="68" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> I went through a slew of cardboard patterns before finally making one that worked.  Here is a view from behind, showing the skidplate installed.  It has been outlined in white for better contrast.  Note the bend down the middle, raising the left side of the skidplate for better ground clearance under the PTO drive.  A lip is bent up along each side for more rigidity:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id504.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Skidplate aft view"><U><IMG SRC="81896460.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="70" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> Here is a view from just in front of the left rear tire.  From this view, the bend in the middle makes the skidplate look like it is angled downwards, when it is actually level:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id505.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Skidplate left view"><U><IMG SRC="823af2c0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="44" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> Further towards the front, this view is looking just in front of the crossmember.  The <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/tips/id321.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/tips/id321.htm"><U>remote T90 drain</U></A> is visible, with a hole underneath in the skidplate:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id506.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Skidplate with T90 drain"><U><IMG SRC="825af420.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="66" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> If you have ever tried to unbolt the stock skidplate, you know what a pain it is.  Carriage bolts were used, with the smooth heads on the bottom and the nuts above the crossmember.  Merely reaching the nuts required unnatural contortions and the liberal use of foul language.  Since the larger skidplate would make access even worse, if not impossible, I used nutclips on the crossmember with bolts from underneath.  Here is a side by side shot.  The nutclip is not fully installed yet, and is turned part way to show its cross-section:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id507.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Nutclip and carriage bolt"><U><IMG SRC="827af3c0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="60" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> The nutclips make securing the skidplate a breeze.  Raise it in place with a floor jack to get the bolts started.  I chose extra long bolts to make it easy to tip the skidplate down on one side for access at a later date.  I can remove two bolts at one side, then loosen the other two and the skidplate tips down nearly to the ground.  Regular hex head bolts were used.  Allen head bolts are available with a rounded head, just like a carriage bolt, if you are concerned about snagging the bolt heads.  However, I was afraid those would be hard to remove if the Allen socket was damaged.  For only a smidge less ground clearance, the hex head bolts should be easier to remove with a pair of Vise Grips if ever damaged.</div> <bR> <div> I don't know who I'm kidding with this killer skidplate.  I'm an overweight middle-aged white guy living in the suburbs, but at least in my dreams I'm ready for those killer trails.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div>  </div> </td> </tr></table></body>