Paint and Decal

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=90 BGCOLOR="#006633" TEXT="#F7F7FF" bgproperties="fixed" background="079005a0ddvuru.png"> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/index.htm"><U><B>home</B></U></A><B>     |     </B><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FFCC66" FACE="Arial" ><B>Vern</B><B>co.com</B></FONT></div> <div> back to<B>  </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Harrison Heater"><U><B>Harrison Heater</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="http://www.vernco.com/id173.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.vernco.com/id173.htm"><U><B>Site Map</B></U></A></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=150 BGCOLOR="#669966" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <A HREF="id586.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Heater Core"><U>Heater Core</U></A></div> <div> <B>Paint and Decal</B></div> <div> <A HREF="id582.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Fan Motor"><U>Fan Motor</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id584.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Installation"><U>Installation</U></A></div> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" height=390 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> Facing the firewall is an identification tag.  The H441A is the Harrison model number, and the 56 is a 1956 date code.  From fellow WillysTech List members I've learned of other date codes in the 1948-1956 range.  The same general style of heater was used on other vehicles, particularly Chevrolet.  The purpose of the 1/2" hole is a mystery:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id596.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Tag Closeup"><U><IMG SRC="9b7af4b0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="75" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> The damage from the broken stud was fairly extensive.  The ID tag was removed by grinding off the rivet heads from the inside.  (They spin if you drill them.)  A good sized patch was carefully welded in place.  In this image, the holes are being redrilled.  A <A HREF="http://www.hougen.com/cutters/sheetmetal/Rotacut.html" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.hougen.com/cutters/sheetmetal"><U>Rotabroach</U></A> (a precision hole saw) was used for the larger holes.  Unless clamped between blocks, the thin sheet metal would be damaged by a conventional twist drill:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id597.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Drilling Welded Patch"><U><IMG SRC="9bc96450.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="69" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> The missing stud was replicated with a fully-threaded bolt and nut.  To distribute the load on the thin sheet metal, fender washers were used on each side.  The washers will not be seen after the heater is installed.  The bolt head must be thin enough so it doesn't hit the heater core.  Here is a close-up after the repair and painting, with the tag riveted back in place:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id624.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Tag Closeup with New Stud"><U><IMG SRC="a5aaf4a0.jpg" border=0 width="175" height="74" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> The original paint has a beautiful texture to it.  It is called a "Hammered Finish" although it looks more like a series of fish eyes.  This image from a protected surface inside the case attempts to show the original finish.  <A HREF="http://www.masterchem.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=44" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.masterchem.com/pages/default."><U>Hammerite Bronze</U></A> spray paint is a very close match.  The color sample at their web site is darker than the actual paint.  As I started covering the old paint, it was nearly impossible to distinguish where the new paint was:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id593.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Paint Finish Closeup"><U><IMG SRC="9b17d590.jpg" border=0 width="125" height="89" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> The Hammerite paint is amazing stuff.  It is not difficult to use, but I learned a few things that will give a more consistent finish.  Read the directions carefully, as you must complete all coats within one hour or wait fourteen days.  As this is a slightly metallic finish, runs and thick spots take on a different appearance.  I practiced on the surfaces facing the firewall and saved the most visible surface for last.  I had the best results by holding the can further back and moving faster than with normal spray paint.  The paint will partially dry in midair, landing in fine globules that barely cover the surface with a lightly pockmarked finish.  Avoid fully wet coats, as this can result in a subtle tiger eye series of stripes.  The best way to avoid this pattern, besides very thin and dry coats, was to move the can quickly in a random fogging pattern.  This is quite different from normal spray paint technique but is not hard to master.  With a few minutes between coats, apply several fogging layers of the fine globules.  Initially, the paint will have the appearance of being applied too thin and too dry.  Aim for a not-quite-wet finish, where the surface just starts to exhibit a hint of a sheen.  As the paint cures over the next few hours, the partially dried globules flow together somewhat, matching the texture and appearance of the factory finish.</div> <bR> <div> As the spraying continued, the nozzle became more prone to clogging and spitting due to the nature of the paint.  Cleaning the nozzle didn't help much.  I had used most of one can to spray the insides and back.  Rather than risk paint spitting on the most visible surfaces, a second fresh can was used to finish the job.  Even though a single can might have had enough paint for the entire job, the risk of ruining the finish made a second can a good idea.</div> <bR> <div> Hammerite was designed to go over nearly any surface, especially old rust.  Inside the case was moderate surface rust, which I merely wire brushed.  I have no idea how the paint works, but it seems to grip best over old rusty surfaces.  On the outside, I didn't want any imperfections showing through so the old paint was lightly sanded, smoothed with spot putty as needed and covered with a good auto body sanding primer.  When topcoated with Hammerite, the heater case looked factory fresh.</div> <div>  <A NAME="decal"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></div> <div> On the face of the heater was a "WILLYS" decal.  Here is a close-up of what was left.  The lighting makes the surrounding paint appear more silver than it really is:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id594.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Original Decal Closeup"><U><IMG SRC="9b37d4d0.jpg" border=0 width="125" height="77" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> With careful measurement of the individual letters, TIFF and JPEG artwork was prepared for a new decal.  (TIFF should give sharper details when printing.)  If anybody ever tries to have me committed, I will have to destroy this artwork, as the several thousand revisions could be used as evidence regarding my sanity.  The decal measures .75" x 2.875" overall, with a silver background and gold border.  Since silver may not reproduce well, I've left the background clear in this artwork:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id595.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="New Decal"><U><IMG SRC="a6a96270.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="39" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> I would like to extend a big thanks to Dan Schultz, Rus Curtis and Andy Testo who have graciously helped with the many details and never tired as I peppered them with multiple questions.  Here are some close-ups they provided.  The first two pictures are of the same decal, with slightly changed camera angles capturing different details.  Note the faded gold border and silver background.  The last picture shows a later (?) style decal, with an all-white background and no border.  Note how that decal has a downward sag in the middle.  As further proof that I've lost it, I noticed some minor differences in the last decal.  The arms on the Y are more vertical.  On the letter S, the inner surface of the upper appendage is curved, while it is straight on the earlier decal:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id626.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Other Decals"><U><IMG SRC="a8b96370.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="55" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> Further details of one of the Jeeps, as captured by Andy Testo and others, can be seen at <A HREF="http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Owners/BurntHills.html" TARGET="_blank" TITLE="http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Owners/B"><U>The CJ-3B Page</U></A>.</div> <bR> <div> Special decal paper is available for printing on your home computer.  Allow me to keep you from wasting your money.  The printing went well, but the inks in a typical inkjet printer are not waterproof and were never designed for such an application.  When the required clearcoat protective finish was applied, the ink lost all clarity and sharpness.  A laser printer would probably do better, but that still can't produce the desired gold and silver background.  After a bit of searching, I found a custom shop who produced a small batch of these waterslide decals on my behalf:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id639.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Decal Batch"><U><IMG SRC="ac596730.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="115" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> This was money well spent, as the results were fantastic.  Here is a close-up of the installed decal.  Decal setting solution, available at any hobby shop, helps the decal conform to the slight texture of the paint.  Between the reflective paint on the case and metallic decal ink, it was difficult to obtain a properly illuminated yet glare-free photo:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id640.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Decal Installed CloseUp"><U><IMG SRC="ac7964f0.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="79" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Update</B></FONT>: The guy who produced the decals for me has since retired.  All of the decals from that batch have been distributed and I do not plan to get any more. Feel free to use the <A HREF="id595.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="New Decal"><U>artwork</U></A> above to have your own decals produced.  Keep in mind that most print shops don't handle waterslide decals anymore.  Vinyl stickers are more prevalent and would look nearly identical, but make sure the adhesive won't soften on the warm surface of the heater.</div> <bR> <div> Here are the dimensions copied from the original decal's location.  Note how the decal is offset to the right.  If you have a heater with the original decal, <A HREF="mailto:kr98664@yahoo.com" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:kr98664@yahoo.com"><U>please let me know</U></A> if these dimensions match what you have:</div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id641.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Decal Installed w/ Dimensions"><U><IMG SRC="ac996550.jpg" border=0 width="150" height="85" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>