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Did your wife make a baby book for your first child? In proper hormone fueled fashion, it would includes everything you could think of. The baby's first burp, first steps, the first time he screamed "NO!" and threw his juice cup across the room, you name it... After a couple of years of diapers and projectile vomiting, most of the baby's novelty has worn off. A sad fact of life is that the second child get shortchanged on his baby book. The first picture, placed with good intentions, shows the baby coming home from the hospital. The next picture is a Polaroid his second grade teacher sent home for receiving an award in class for something like "Best Potential to be Next Year's Most Improved Student." Where is all this leading? Well, I already posted lots of content about the rear axle rebuild, and now it is time to move on to the front axle...
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Okay, fine, I guess I can do something...
The Model 25 front axle was used on the CJ-2A. The upside down designation "25" is cast in the rear side of the housing, on the passenger side. Also note the helper spring perch on the top of the axletube:
The axle photographed here was supposedly professionally rebuilt but was never installed afterwards. It passed through several owners before I purchased it. From what I can gather, the "Rebuild" consisted of walking past while holding a manual. I'm not even sure the mechanic actually walked past. He might have stood in another room and thought about a rebuild, hoping some of it would rub off on the axle. Other than having some new bearings, it still needed a lot of work. Just like the rear axle, the shims were apparently reinstalled exactly like before but with new bearings, so many adjustments were far out of whack.

When removing the axle for rebuilding, you may end up scratching your head trying to figure out how to remove the tie rods from the steering knuckles. Head down to your local auto parts store and ask for a pickle fork. I promise they won't laugh at you. Okay, you'll still have to wear pants and conform to most social norms, but they won't laugh about your choice of words. The proper name is a tie rod separator, but everybody calls them pickle forks. They come in several sizes, one with an opening of about 3/4" works well for this application. This picture shows a pickle fork being used to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle. This is an application where a large hammer is needed. Don't waste your time with a smaller hammer, it won't generate enough force. With the right tool and proper amount of percussion, the tie rod will pop out quickly and easily. Note how the hammer blows are aimed nearly in a straight line with the arm on the knuckle to make sure nothing bends. There are other types of tie rod separators available, but I've found nothing works better than a good old pickle fork. Plus, they are fun to tap with a hammer and listen to them resonate:

If you have trouble finding a pickle fork locally, order a Lisle #18520. Lisle Tools also has a well-known inventor's program, from which I have an impressive collection of rejection forms.
Click on the links below to read more details about the rebuild. These are roughly arranged in the order that the axle is reassembled:
To doublecheck internal clearances after final assembly, with the vehicle still on jack stands, engage the locking hubs. Make sure the brake drums can be turned freely while the steering is turned from lock to lock. This will ensure that no binding is occuring within the axleshaft joints inside the knuckles.
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