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There's a very nice late model Land Rover I've seen a few times around town. This baby has the full high-school drug dealer option package with every sort of 4WD accessory imaginable, including steel traction mats strapped to the side of the rooftop safari rack. This would be right at home crossing the Kalahari but it looks pretty silly any time we meet up in the local Dairy Queen parking lot. I wanted to carry my Hi-Lift jack more or less incognito to avoid the drug dealer look and keep it out of the weather when not in use.
Here is the first rejected option, across the front bumper. This was too attention-grabbing for my taste, and the tires would throw a lot of crud onto the jack mechanism. The jack base has been removed:
Plan C, utilizing the Canine Restraint Bar, would be perfect for the full Urban Commando look but wasn't for me:
Here is what finally worked for me. The jack is easily broken down for storage by sliding the beam up through the jack mechanism. A pair of wing nuts hold the beam on the backside of the windshield's base section. Two protruding studs originally secured long-missing brackets that held bows for the factory soft-top. Only the CJ-2A had these studs, so mounting the beam like this on other models would require new holes. It was necessary to trim 1" from the beam to fit between the windshield uprights:
The studs weren't long enough to hold the beam, so extension pieces were fabricated. One end of a 3/8" rod was drilled and tapped to thread over the existing 5/16" stud. The hole is not very deep or it would interfere with the 3/8" male threads cut on the other end:
The extension stud traps a 5/16" fender washer against the backside of the windshield sheet metal, thereby distributing the load. Several pieces of adhesive foam are arranged to absorb vibration. Note how the foam has already deformed to match the cross section of the beam. While the sheet metal is fairly thin, the beam is held very securely and I don't anticipate any problems with cracking:
What to do with the rest of the jack? The original handle was cut to form a socket for a detachable version, allowing storage in the toolbox under the passenger seat. (Some brands already feature a detachable handle like this) The detachable handle is smaller in diameter to fit inside the stub of the original handle:
The new handle is a piece of common plumbing pipe. It was just a shade too fat for an easy fit, so the end was turned down on a lathe. The interference was due to a protruding weld bead inside the original handle. A simpler solution than the lathe work would have been to grind a groove in the new handle to clear the weld bead. Another option would be a larger diameter pipe that fits over the stub of the original handle:
Here is the quick release pin holding the two pieces together:
The jack mechanism fits out of view in the toolbox. (The passenger seat has been removed for this picture.) The maximum length of the detachable handle was determined by tucking one end in the corner and measuring diagonally across the toolbox opening as shown. By coincidence, the assembled length is the same as the original handle. When fully stowed, the handle fits out of the way against the front edge of the toolbox. While the jack mechanism and removable base are shown in the center of the opening, they can also be moved out of the way to make room for other items:
My next mission is to find or make a canvas bag for the jack mechanism. They work so much better when kept moderately clean.
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